6 May 2007
Fah Asian Bistro and Sushi Bar in boca Raton, FL
If one goes by subtitles on signs, the full name of this establishment is Fah Asian Bistro and Sushi Bar. Fah is a new restaurant, but it is run by a group of old hands at the Asian Bistro concept. Created by the team that also owns Lemongrass (Asian Bistro) in Delray Beach and Sushi Thai (Asian Bistro) in Boca, Fah was a runaway success when it opened a few months ago. The crowds have calmed down a bit but the restaurant retains its considerable polish and style.
Fah is decorated in shades of blue, anchored by a glass mosaic half wall behind the sushi bar that incorporates a gentle waterfall.
The hip look is carried into the dining area with white leather banquettes, blue walls and table tops that are laminated with subtle blue tints.
If the decor seeks to give the restaurant a cool, contemporary beach look, the service adds a bit of warmth. Servers are attentive and well informed.
It was the earnest evaluation of a server that prompted choosing a Kobe roll ($11.95) from the sushi bar one night. The roll, with no relation to Kobe beef, incorporates thick slices of seared tuna, black and white sesame seeds and a creamy wasabi sauce that provides perfect balance of cool and piquant elements.
My favorite is the Lobster Monster ($19.95) is an exceptional creation that combines lobster with cucumber, asparagus and masago with eel sauce in a roll that comprises half the dish. The other part of the crustacean extravaganza is the lobster tail from which the meat was removed, sliced and quickly fried then neatly replaced in the shell. This makes for a rather rich dish, but it’s a good foil for the clean flavors of the lobster roll.
There are a lot of flavors on tap at Fah and they are good when combined with subtlety and less impressive when they don’t properly merge.
Fah has a decent wine list and a good selection of beers and, since it doesn’t have a liquor license, an inventive list of wine-based cocktails. The sake “martinis” are of particular interest.
Another great restaurant from this group and look for another Lemongrass opening this fall in East Boca in Royal Palm Place.
